Thirty days changes what an India trip can be. Instead of picking one region and moving fast through it, you can cover two properly, or go deep into one without the constant sense of a clock running down. The recommended route below is the north-and-south combination from our 3-week India itinerary, slowed down and filled out with the stops a shorter trip has to skip. Two more month-long alternatives follow it, for the north on its own and for a properly demanding high-altitude route. For the full range of lengths, see the India itinerary guide.

A tourist boat on Lake Pichola, with Udaipur's City Palace on the far shore
Magnific, licensed to SoloNomads website
WeekRegionHighlights
1Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, PushkarThe Taj Mahal, Amber Fort, a holy lake's ghats
2Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, UdaipurThe Blue City, a desert camel camp, Lake Pichola
3Mumbai, Goa, GokarnaMarine Drive, beach time, a coastal trek
4Hampi, Kochi, Munnar, Alleppey, VarkalaTemple ruins among boulders, tea estates, a backwater houseboat
Om Beach at Gokarna, a curve of sand backed by palms and green hills
Magnific, licensed to SoloNomads website
DaysPlaceWhatEat
1 to 2DelhiJama Masjid, Chandni Chowk, Humayun's TombParathas, the Bangla Sahib langar
3AgraAgra Fort, the Taj MahalPetha
4 to 5JaipurAmber Fort, the City PalaceLaal maas
6PushkarThe lake's ghatsMalpua
7 to 8JodhpurMehrangarh Fort, the Blue CityMakhaniya lassi
9 to 10JaisalmerThe living fort, a desert camel campKer sangri
11 to 13UdaipurThe City Palace, a sunset boat on Lake PicholaDal baati churma
14Fly to MumbaiThe old Fort districtPav bhaji
15 to 16MumbaiMarine Drive, dabbawalas at workVada pav
17 to 19GoaAnjuna's beaches, Old Goa, a free day on PalolemGoan fish curry, feni
20 to 21GokarnaOm Beach, the coastal trekCoconut fish curry
22 to 23HampiThe Vittala Temple, a coracle rideA Karnataka thali
24Fly to KochiFort Kochi's fishing netsAppam and stew
25 to 26MunnarTea estates, Eravikulam's viewpoints (the park closes in February and March)Filter coffee
27 to 28AlleppeyA backwater houseboat, booked as a groupAn on-board Kerala thali
29 to 30VarkalaThe cliff, a slow finish, departureFresh-catch seafood

A month gives you room for the parts the three-week version has to cut: the full Rajasthan desert loop through Jaisalmer, a proper stop in Gokarna between Goa and Hampi, and enough days in Kerala to add Munnar's tea estates rather than choosing between the hills and the backwaters. See the Rajasthan route guide and the Kerala route guide for both halves in full.

Rows of green tea bushes covering the hills around Munnar in Kerala
Envato Elements, licensed to SoloNomads website

Other ways to spend a month

North India classic: full Rajasthan, Varanasi, Rishikesh and Amritsar

Everything on this route sits within a day's road or rail journey of the last stop, so it's the one month-long option here that never needs a domestic flight.

The Blue City of Jodhpur below the walls of Mehrangarh Fort at sunset
Envato Elements, licensed to SoloNomads website
WeekRegionHighlights
1Delhi, Agra, JaipurThe Taj Mahal, Amber Fort, the Pink City's bazaars
2Pushkar, Jodhpur, JaisalmerA holy lake, the Blue City, a desert camel camp
3Udaipur, VaranasiLake Pichola, the Ganga aarti, a sunrise boat
4Rishikesh, Amritsar, DelhiWhite-water rafting, the Golden Temple's langar
DaysPlaceWhatEat
1 to 2DelhiOld and New DelhiParathas, chaat
3AgraThe Taj Mahal, Agra FortPetha
4 to 5JaipurAmber Fort, the City PalaceLaal maas
6PushkarThe lake's ghatsMalpua
7 to 8JodhpurMehrangarh Fort, the Blue CityMakhaniya lassi
9 to 10JaisalmerThe living fort, a desert camel campKer sangri
11 to 14UdaipurThe City Palace, plus a Bundi or Chittorgarh side tripDal baati churma
15 to 16Fly to VaranasiThe Ganga aartiKachori sabzi
17 to 18VaranasiA sunrise boat, SarnathMalaiyo, in winter
19 to 21RishikeshWhite-water rafting, a drop-in yoga classRishikesh thali, fresh juices
22 to 23MussoorieCamel's Back Road, a hill-station sunsetSimple hill-station food
24 to 25AmritsarThe Golden Temple, the Wagah border ceremonyAmritsari kulcha
26 to 30Back to DelhiFree days, or an extra night anywhere the pace has felt too fastMughlai kebabs

See the Rajasthan route guide, the Golden Triangle route guide and the Amritsar guide for each stretch. The Wagah ceremony sits on the Pakistan border, and the UK government advises against travel within 10 km of it, so read the Amritsar guide's note on the current position before you plan around it.

The mountains: Himachal, Spiti and Ladakh

Pangong Lake in Ladakh, a pale shoreline below brown mountains
Envato Elements, licensed to SoloNomads website

This is a serious month, not a casual one. It spends more than two weeks above 3,000 metres, crosses two of the highest motorable roads in the world, and needs two separate acclimatisation periods, one before Spiti and a second, fresh one before Ladakh, rather than treating the whole month as one long climb. It only works June to September, when Kunzum Pass and the Manali-Leh road are both open, and it suits a fit traveller who has already spent time in the mountains, not a first high-altitude trip. Foreign visitors need a Protected Area Permit for Ladakh's Nubra, Pangong and Tso Moriri areas. It is issued to groups of two or more through a registered travel agent, usually arranged in Leh, so solo travellers should ask the agent how the group rule is handled before paying. They also need an Inner Line Permit for the protected villages on the Kinnaur and Spiti roads.

WeekRegionHighlights
1Delhi, McLeod Ganj, Bir Billing, KasolThe Dalai Lama's temple, tandem paragliding, the Parvati Valley
2Manali, SpitiOld Manali, Key Monastery, Chandratal, the Kinnaur road to Shimla
3Shimla, Delhi, Leh, Nubra ValleyThe toy train, a fresh round of altitude rest, Khardung La
4Pangong Lake, Tso Moriri, Leh, DelhiTwo remote high-altitude lakes, then home
DaysPlaceWhatEat
1 to 2DelhiOld and New DelhiParathas, chaat
3 to 4McLeod GanjThe Dalai Lama's temple complexThukpa, momos
5Bir BillingTandem paragliding, weather permittingA Himachali thali
6 to 7KasolThe Parvati Valley, a walk to ChalalCafe food
8 to 9ManaliOld Manali, Solang ValleySiddu, river trout
10 to 11Manali to KazaOver Kunzum Pass, via ChandratalThukpa, momos
12KazaKey Monastery, Kibber villageChhurpi
13Langza, Hikkim and KomicFossil-hunting, the world's highest post office-
14 to 16Kaza to ShimlaVia Kinnaur, along the Sutlej riverApple products
17Shimla, back to DelhiThe toy train, the RidgeSimple hill-station food
18Fly to LehRest only; the trip's most important day, againThukpa, momos
19LehMore acclimatisation: Leh Palace, Shanti StupaSkyu
20Nubra ValleyOver Khardung La, Diskit's giant BuddhaApricot products
21 to 22Pangong LakeThe lake's colours through the afternoonButter tea
23 to 24Tso MoririA quieter, higher lake, birdwatching at KorzokChhurpi
25Back to LehThe return drive-
26LehA buffer day, or Hemis and Thiksey monasteriesChhurpi
27Fly to Delhi--
28 to 30DelhiFree days, or an easier finish before flying homeMughlai kebabs

See the Himachal Pradesh route guide, the Spiti Valley route guide and the Ladakh route guide for each stretch in full, and don't treat this as a route to compress: the buffer days exist because mountain roads lose days to weather more often than plains routes do.

Choosing between them

RouteChoose it if
North and south, unhurriedYou want to see two very different sides of India without feeling rushed in either
North India classicYou'd rather not fly domestically and want to go deep into Rajasthan, Varanasi and the Himalayan foothills
The mountainsYou're an experienced high-altitude traveller, genuinely fit, and your dates fall between June and September

What this costs

A month adds up: outside flights into and out of the country, a careful backpacker spends about ₹2,900 to ₹3,400 a day in the north, a little less on the coast and in Kerala, and considerably more on the mountain month, where jeep hire, permits and remote prices all push costs up. Domestic flights (Udaipur to Mumbai and Bengaluru to Kochi on the recommended route, Delhi to Leh on the mountain month) are worth budgeting for separately. Our India cost guide breaks it all down.

Best time to go

October to March suits both the recommended route and the all-north classic, when the plains are dry, Goa's beach shacks are open and Kerala is past its monsoon. The mountain month only works June to September, when Kunzum Pass and the Manali-Leh road are both clear of snow; outside that window, cut Spiti and Ladakh and stick to the Himachal towns below them instead.

Getting around

Trains and vans cover most of the north, with two short domestic flights bridging the gaps to Mumbai and Kochi on the recommended route. The all-north classic runs entirely on trains, vans and the odd overnight bus. The mountain month is shared taxis and jeeps throughout, plus one flight each way to Leh, since none of these mountain towns sit on a railway line.

Keep planning